
Even with his cape pulled tight around him, the medieval scholar would have felt the chill draughts that blew through the university cloisters in the winter months. His head would have been the most exposed part of his body, so it’s not surprising that early scholars wore a hood for protection. But over time fashions changed and the skull cap rose in popularity. Made from four pieces of cloth sewn together, it would have perfectly fitted his tonsured (shaven) head, protecting him from the harsh cold.
The skull cap is the direct ancestor of much of today’s academic headdress. The mortarboard is actually a combination of the skull cap and pileus quadratus, a four-pointed cap worn in Oxford and Cambridge during the 16th century. The square of the pileus eventually became so large that a board was inserted to prevent the corners from drooping over the eyes. No longer needed as a practical shield against the cold, the head dress now symbolises academic achievement and scholarship.
Another cap still used today was often sported by His Majesty King Henry VIII and other fashion-conscious members of the Tudor court. Dubbed the Tudor bonnet, it has a stiff brim and soft gathered crown, similar to that worn by the Beefeaters at the Tower of London. Nowadays it’s usually worn by doctors of philosophy.
